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tell me the #s on the carb and post a pic if you can.

ok, its not likely a balance issue or internal then, even an unbalanced motor will rev it may come apart but itll rev lol. if the motor cant go past 4k then it would be ign., fuel or valvetrain related. at this point I would pull all your plugs and see how they look, that will tell you...

ok, its hard to do this online but ill try. first I or we need to know everything that led up to this point, what did you do or happened right before the vibration started? this is very important so be specific please. next, sart the car and watch the balancer while reving the motor, does it...

hey, what about a e4od in that thing? I have one sitting here that i can build up for ya. an e4od is a c6 with overdrive might take some fitting to get it in but theyre bulletproof so you can drop it in and forget about it. otherwise I will have a price for you on the aod by tonight.

well im not in the shop now, but off the top of my head 2500$ for everything you need to hold up to 600 or more hp is cutting it close, and the guy must have really been messing with you, you should ask if they fill the ballon with helium for that extra weight savings. Im gonna guess they meant...

damn, 6k for an aod these days? let me see what I can do for a aod build for ya to handle 600 hp. shouldnt be a problem, does it have to be full auto or is full manual ok?

no kidding, he works with manny

stock T5, nothing wrong with it, shifts perfect. its in my car now so it can be tested. 500$

have a Tremec 3550 for sale, shifts good, no problems. asking 800$

zoomie, I will give you 2 pieces of advice that 20 years of racing has taught me. 1) If you plan on building it right once then dont waste time or money on a cam right now, that will be one of the last things youll get and plans change over time so you never know what parts you may decide to use...

OK, so lets start with the cam, its pretty simple. if lets say i have a cam with .3 lift and I decide i want a cam with say .9 lift and nothing else but the lift has changed then there is absolutely a chance that there will be no interference. it doesn't matter if the pistons are full flat top...

lift is not what determines if a cam will fit. the difference between an ho an non ho is the cam and computer. will the cam fit? most likely since it is designed for a stock motor but doing a cam swap on a stock motor is a waste of money anyway.

If youre going to do it, then do it right and get a dart or world block. To do that kind of build youll need the best parts everywhere, theres just no way around it. Just some advice, the words "I do all my own work" and " Im new to this but I heard" really dont go together when it comes to a...

need a roller, drop it off when youre done parting it lol.

I have a full brand new interior for a 65 mustang coupe. interior is black and I have everything for a complete overhaul, perfect for that new project or to fix up what you have. best offer, I know what its worth so please no low ballers.

stop by any time, Im always there lol 9am to 10 pm.

heli coil is just as strong and its the only fix unless youre going to have a machine shop weld and drill/tap a new hole.

its easy to do if your wallet is big, I wouldnt with a stock block though and it wouldnt be very streetable. Id love to meet the guy that took a stock 302 and just bolted on a set of afr heads and got 450 hp from it, he should donate himself to racing science so we can study him Ive never heard...

the swap is fairly simple, just measure from drum to drum to see which length will work best for you as a sn95 rear is longer than a 79-93 rear. the perches are cheap but they need to be welded on and it must be done right . as for lowering a leaf spring car you mount the spring on the underside...

i will have to measure the driveshaft, it was in a 95 mustang with a c4 and an 8.8 rear with a billet yoke 9" rear style. the shaft should fit a t5 or an aod as they always have. this shaft is rated to 1000 hp behind a 3200lb car according to inland empire