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Im selling some of my race stuff, time to upgrade. I have a 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft with quick disconect billet yoke,1350 joints and it fits a 8.8 with billet yoke,out of my 95. 500$ new dynamic pro transbrake for a c4 500$ obo ATI MRT 8" converter 5000 stall 600$ if you have any...

theres alot of things you should do, but the real most important question is how much money do you want to spend? Thats what dictates the work done, its best to work up a budget then find the best combo for the cash you have. Theres no point in changing things if the rest of the car cant utilize...

the heads are no good, its a 50/50 shot on getting good castings and the work involved to get them right puts the price in the same range as everyone else. Like D1 said work the suspension and worry about the block. 513 rwhp is enough to put any lx mustang in the 10's so the problem isnt the hp...

i agree, build it right the first time with the best parts you can buy. its cheaper to build it once than 2 or 3 times. as for what it costs, well that depends on where you go, Id put 2000$ aside for it to cover parts and labor for a fully built and braced rear but the more you can do yourself...

you have a bad heater core

about an hour, im in newburgh area

go down to your local boat store and buy a can of fogging oil, use that before storage and that will keep the cylinders from getting any rust. also if the storage is gonna be for more than a few months it would be smart to back off all the rockers so you dont kill the springs.

need to tune the carb. a small carb does not cause a stumble or flat spot, actually its the other way around where a carb that is too big may cause a stumble off idle but unless the carb is way out of range it can be tuned out. If the carb isnt tuned correctly you may be dumping fuel through the...

well, i guess thats fine. whatever is comfortable for the owner is what should be used. by no means am i saying anyone should spray a 250 shot, as you have to be well versed in the use of nitrous to push the limits but believe me a stock block will hold a 250 shot on a mild motor, i come from a...

if you guys are afraid of the nitrous then why use it or give advice about it? the stock block can, will, and has for many years held up to 250 shot on 87-90 mustangs, with the switch to hyper pistons we kept it under a 200 shot. The block itself does not dictate what amount of nitrous you can...

for a stock block id keep the nitrous under a 300 shot.

anywhere from 12-16 is good for base but base has no value other than starting and idling on a performance motor. you want to run about 36 full advance and if its a street car you can play with the curve but generally you want it to come in fast and before 3000 rpm. What dist. are you running?

OK, well first id get a better shop as all they said isn't true id almost say not possible but anything is possible. first off the distributor cant get stuck, if the gear was stuck the car wouldn't start and theres nothing in those dist. to get stuck as the comp controls the timing curve and you...

im confused about this word sticking, it seems the shop you go to uses that work for everything. either the valves open or they dont, if the valve doesnt open you will know it, if it gets stuck open you will know it and if it isnt closing all the way well then the car would run bad also. is it...

do you have a broken t5? if so i may be able to build what you have.

you can, but you have to get the spray bars then drill the plate and epoxy the tubes in and tap the ends for fittings. putting a nozzle in the plate will only feed one cyl. if you call around youll find the spray bars.

nitrous express and compucar should make one for you, its been a long time since i had to make a plate but if all else fails ill see if i can get the tubes and make one, then you can buy any kit you want.

the best way to bypass it is to go carbed lol