Search results

I would not recommend a fogger kit to a new user and defiantly not to a self installer. A fogger kit is really for someone who is shooting for 400 + nitrous hp. If noone is making a plate for your setup which I'm sure some one does and you are pushed into a fogger kit then you need to bring it...

give me/us an idea of what you'd like to get for these items.

run stock springs in the rear. a sway bar and an anti roll bar are 2 different things, the wolfe is an anti roll bar and while some run them on the street its not a good idea. just run a stock type swaybar, and whatever rear control arms you want. The solids are a bit harsh in my opinion so...

are you looking for fronts, rears or whole car? front are cheap and just bolt on all you need are c/c plates. rears depend on what type you want to get, they can just bolt in or you may have to fabricate to get them in. all in all not hard to install and no you dont need to change any arms or...

first clean with a prep solve not brakeclean or any other cleaner then use SEM trim or bumper black. SEM is the best stuff.

1) ive used mac , hooker and flowtech and others say bbk so you have options 2) AOD's are bad trannys to use, to make them better a good rebuild with valve body correction kit and good bands and servos will help. 3)AODE is a better unit than the AOD but it is electronic and it will require mods...

hell, stock 302 goin 12's is cake so if you cant get a 347 in the 12's then theres something really wrong. Its not the motor, its all in the suspension. Hey, NY did you get the wiring fixed? you have to bring your car by so i can see it. Stop in if you drive by.

a reasonable # is 1-1.2 hp per cube unless your parts are really bad

well if all youre looking for is 250 hp or 13's then you dont need much. just get 1.7 rockers, stock cam and a cobra or gt40 intake. SD cars can go plenty fast in the right hands and it does not in any way require a head change or other big mods to get what you want. I dont know what you have...

i dont know what youre looking to get out of the swap but it will not give you any performance benifits. will it work, sure if you dont have a problem with the tuning end of it as SD is sensitive and takes some playing around. if i were you id just use a set of 1.7 rockers and stock cam till you...

lets start with whats done to the motor already

you pull the plug from the front of the housing on the pass side next to the driveshaft, its a 3/8 ratchet

could be a few things, if it cranks but no start after a good heat cycle then the common things would be tfi module, fuel pump or inj. no real way to check tfi module, for pump you can check fuel press but doesnt always tell you anything, and be sure theres a full tank of gas in it not half a...

im in walden ny so im about 6 hours from you, i will give it to you for free but you have to cover shipping. it would probably be around 5 bucks.

walden ny

heres the link for it, i see they went down in price so you pay shipping or pick up and its yours. http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Transmission-Accessories-and-Kits/ShiftPlus-Electronic-Shift-Improver

i got one better for ya. i have a b&m elect. shift controller for your car that i dont want. 20$ and its yours. you can look at it on the B&M site its a shift controller for aode.

you can but it wont last long and for the price of buying gears and paying to install them you could get a nice rear that will hold up.

usually i need to see wire colors but ill do my best. for the most part the wiring that comes from the driver side is everything need to run the car minus injection so youll have a plug for the headlights, alt etc. depending on what your plans are you may not need to use some of the connections...

I know you'll think I'm wrong but heres goes lol. I'm not a big fan of aluminum heads on a street car since the 50lbs you save is of no significance and id rather make more power but hey . The AFR heads would be the better of the 3 you're looking at but as a Dart dealer I have to recommend the...