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okay, here is the deal, if that has a factory balancer on it its two piece even though it looks like one and sometimes the rubber/elastic type thingy between the two wears or dry rots, even if this happened the piece the pulley bolts to on the balancer is the piece that bolts to the crank, so if...

sorry, you did not say the car ran out of oil you said you lost oil pressure, indicating you were looking at the gauge. I guess we need to ask more detailed questions. A normal leaky oil pan gasket or pretty much non-existing one will not affect oil pressure even if there is one quart of oil...

here are casting numbers and years for 5.0 blocks seems a common question D8VE= YEAR 1979,80,81 WEIGHT 135lbs. E0AE= YEAR 1982 WEIGHT 120lbs. E2AE= YEAR 12/01/1982,83,84 WEIGHT 120lbs. E5AE= YEAR 1985 WEIGHT 122lbs. E6SE= YEAR 1986-93 WEIGHT 126lbs.

was not gonna say it but.......since you did :smash:

x2 let me in on those! how much?

when you say you lost oil pressure? thats not an electric autometer oil gauge is it?? so say you lost your alternator (from the loose belt/pulley whatever) and anything it supplies with electric?

I would say that the crank pulley is the root of the problem, are the bolts for the crank pulley and the bolt for the harmonic balancer tight?? if so is the belt tight?? p/s, alternator, and the water pump are all run off the belt(crank) so if the pulley is loose and the belt slips viola...

x2:awesomework:

I believe the ecu you are looking for will say (DC) on it this is 87-88 non-mass air auto 5.0, someone else here maybe able to verify that, IMO I would go with the A9L computer and get the mass air conversion, you can get both harness on ebay pretty cheap

i retract my last statement, thought that was one.... sorry!

try this link, think you will like the price better http://www.amazon.com/KYB-235009-GR-2-Strut/dp/B000CO7VME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1254963592&sr=8-1

have one from a 91 mustang still in the car has 5400 miles, not 54,000, it has 5,400 original miles. old lady wrecked her car, let me know

I would say check it with a degree wheel and you will know where it is supposed to be:)

also the most important part is the fuel lines, they are different from the front of the car to the tank

i installed this system on my friends car, i made a bracket out of diamond plate and mounted behind the tank up to spare tire spot (nut and bolt), actually came out pretty nice its tucked up behind the bumper cover but if you look close you can just see the fuel pump, I will try to post a pic soon

t-5 out of a 95 v-6 car, also have other stuff for anyone looking to switch v-6 auto to stick $450 [/IMG]

I got it, shoot me a pm

steeda billet fuel rails not using them so they gotta go $110

bought these last year when i switched to 5-lug they have about 1,000 miles on them they are perfect except one that they tire machine got. $300

Yeah I hear ya, what kind of power are you making that you cant go back to the 42lb injectors?