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A new small block! About the size of a soda bottle! Remember when the Geo metro was around? That had a 3 cylinder too. I think the thing got close to 40 ish MPG. I say spray that b!tch and see how it goes.:awesomework:

I understand, maybe you'll get some life out of the free pump. Get it together quick so you can join us at the cruise on June 12th!

Being that your car has a return system, all you need to do is put the pump in and hook up the electrical and your good to go. Your stock rails are O.K. My previous post was showing you a Supercar pump for a returnless system. There is no need to get a returnless pump if don't need it. A...

Re: NYM Presents Cruise for a Cure -National Breast Cancer Foundation -June 12, 2011 Do you have any fat guy tee shirts???? XXL would be wonderful!

Re: NYM Presents Cruise for a Cure -National Breast Cancer Foundation -June 12, 2011 I will be there!!!! And I'll bring a buddy of mine. Can I pay when I get there???

Yeah, $20 will buy you an AWESOME fuel pump......:smash:

Ford GT (supercar) fuel pump for 1998-2004 Mustang GT/V6/Bullitt/Mach1/Cobra [4G7Z-9A407-CA] Click to enlarge Product ID: 4G7Z-9A407-CA Description: Ford GT fuel pump. With increased HP, the demand for a higher performing Fuel pump becomes critical. With the higher LPH Ford GT fuel pump...

P.M. sent:)

Lethal performance has the Ford GT supercar pumps for around $90. Minor mods are needed to make it fit the stock basket, but it's well worth it. I'm pretty sure it flows more than 255 and is compatible with the returnless system.

I have a botttom end from an 88 Mustang ready to go. 5.0 roller cam Bored .030 over. Hyperuetectic flat tops and a new FMS crank. Disassembled @ the moment. Add bearings,rings,cam and timing chain and you've got it made. $350 OBO

...............I have nothing..................HO-LY SHE-IT!!!!

Yes it can. Just be sure you didn't smoke a clutch on it too bad. We've had issues where the starter toothed ring comes off after a bad overheat.

Here are the pics of the retainer and spider assy. $40 plus shipping. I also have pushrod guide plates if interested. $15 plus shipping.

Definetly a roller block. It's out of an 88. The question now is do you have the lifter retainers and spider setup to keep the rollers on the cam correctly? If not, I have a BRAND NEW complete retainer and spider assembly. Let me know. Once this is corrected, Getting this running will be easy...

So we know the cam has an HO firing order, but you've yet to say whether the block is a factory roller block or not. If you did a roller conversion on a 302, flat tappet block, you would have to use a small base circle cam to get the valvetrain to work correctly. What are the casting numbers on...

By you cranking the snot out of it you probably fried the starter. Have someone try to crank it while you gently tap on the starter. Also see if the starter gets hot. It should only get slightly warm. Then go to a GOOD auto parts store and buy yourself a starter.

Replace your thermostat. I've had a bunch of them that were no good right out of the box. AVOID Advance or Autozone. Also look into a Motorad Tstat. They have a failsafe built into them so if it fails, it stays wide open so your engine won't overheat. Put a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant back in. I...

You might think its loosing power, but no, your not. Obviously your worried, so get the Gatorback. mIf that still doesn't satisfy the problem, get a different tensioner.

So your block is or isn't a factory roller block? Did you put the roller lifter retainers back in? What about the Spring steel retainer that holds the retainers in place? I'm almost wondering if your block is a 302 or a 5.0. Easiest way to check is look where the dipstick goes into the engine...

Whats happening is your tensioner is momentarilly being pulled up, causing the belt to chirp. No way you'll lose the belt. If you want a Gatorback, google your nearest Goodyear store location. They should have them.