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Good prices....is this your stuff?

The 90mm LMAF will not work to 600hp, is it in a draw thru or blow thru setup? Most turbo are blow thru but I don't know how that system is setup. Blow thru maybe 400rwhp, draw thru 450rwhp but it all depends. The fuel pump might be ok but my friends 99 Cobra didn't have enough at 400-425rwhp...

Nice..

What k-member does the Hellion come with? Sounds like you have a nice pile of parts man!

If you are going to run the TFS Stage 1 I'd get 1.6 rockers. You will more than likely need a tune with it but not a huge deal. I had that cam in my 331 YouTube - 93 Mustang LX with 331 stroker and Vortech S-Trim, idle & rev

AFM - Making Waves article on this intake, makes close to same hp as a TFS but more TQ down low as much as 20ft lbs more....

10-15hp

In a 5spd car it would be 30-40 rwhp more, the C4 auto and loose converter don't dyno much. I am hoping he will come to the track to me this spring and see what it can do. It is not too hard to hit 370-420rwhp with a 331/347... The 428SCJ in my '69 only made 411hp on an engine dyno so 400rwhp...

I tried those aluminum dead soft ones and they sucked, some people love them. Make sure you re-tighten the bolts after taking it for a quick spin.

My dads best friend has a pretty nice 347 in his convertible, has Dart heads, large cam, Performer RPM, etc..etc. This was when it had the smaller headers on it. With the high stall and C4 it puts down mid 300's at the wheels YouTube - Jim's Mustang

Isn't Adam aka The Tuner Guy on here from Rochester?

What kind of chip do you have?

The textured stuff?

or these Fel Pro MS90000 Fel-Pro Exhaust Manifold Gaskets which are only $8.99 on rock auto

I don't think that is what was intended. The stock rods/crank/pistons are quite capable of taking abuse. The only weak link worth replacing might be the rod bolts if you are really screaming the car. But I have owned a pile of these cars and worked even more and keeping the revs 6k or under and...

That should haul really, who did all the work? Was the cam degreed?

Yea, you shouldn't have to mess with it like that. If done right you should not have to touch it. You can leave adaptive totally off if wanted, many do this and it may be the way to go with your car.

If that is indeed the issue, unhooking the battery and clearing the KAM will get you back to the way it was. If you do this and it still isn't right it is something else. Normally the adaptive is set so that it does not store changes anymore like it would normally.

Noise,Vibration,Harshness it is just a dampener

I wish I had your budget lol.