Well this is pretty much how my 66 looked about 23 years ago except it didn't have the mid 70's 14x7 500's on. Instead it had Superior chrome basket wheels that were rusty and missing the lock to remove the basket shod with 14" whitewalls. I picked these wheels and tires up at a swap meet. I think at the Reading Ford show just to get rid of the Superior. It had the typical half A$$ work from PO's. The brakes were lousy, one front drum was original the other a newer, finned aftermarket. The 289 appeared to have been rebuilt at some time but looked like it was the original one as it had the date code stamped on the bock which was pretty close to the build date. The C4 leaked as well as the PS which was notchy. I first started on the brakes. I had to weld up all the backing plates where the shoes rode. Some were literally paper thin. I discovered while small blocks used a 2.25" wide shoe in front and big blocks used a 2.5" shoes, there was only one drum listed. I put 2.5" shoes up front and all new drums and flex lines. The 2.5" brakes worked very well.
I had this vibration I was convinced was from the engine. I had found some old receipts in the car from one owner in LA that were over a long period of time. One day I was curious and called the number of the customer on the receipts. I was lucky and spoke with the owner's wife. They had owned the car for something like 28 years and she was sorry when her husband sold the car. She confirmed the engine was rebuilt. He husband had taken the car for a oil changed except the shop forgot to put oil in. I thought since the shop was eating a rebuild, they were less then careful and threw what ever was laying around and hence the vibration. More later
I had a good running 302 I took out of a parts car. it had 125K miles, ran well, no knocks or smoke so I put that in thinking it would fix the vibration. Wrong, I had been planning a Toploader swap. Not the best time or conditions to start
The front pump bushing and snout on the converter were worn.
I don't know what's going on with the forum but it won't let me make a long post, so I'm breaking it up.
The standard pot metal hats and nylon bushing don't hold up too well. I wanted my convertion to last but not only last but to work smoothly. On the pedal hanger I sent it out to Mustang Steve to have one of his sealed bearing kits installed. I could have done it I was busy working on other stuff. I think it was something like $125 for parts and labor
I made my own clutch linkage too. I used 3/8" cold rolled steel rod I bought at a local hardware store. The rod ends I purchased from Graingers. "Special" tools needed are a tape measure, hacksaw, file and a 3/8x24 die. This was stupid easy to do. The whole set up with this and the roller bearings on the pedal hanger work super smooth and easy.
The Toploader was out of a 69 Merc Montego 351W. I swapped the Montego tailshaft for a Mustang tailshaft. I didn't want to use a adapter.
One thing I learned from this and my GT40P swap. If you buy a repro block plated, grind the starter hole open before installing the flywheel. I've had to grind them open the last two times...after the engine was in the car. Not too easy.
So what was the source of your vibration issue? the worn converter?
When I got 2nd 66 it was a 6cyl standard shift car someone swapped to a v8 auto and the pedal hanger was a mess.
So at the time I swapped in the 3 speed from 1st 66.My uncle is a machinist and built a brass or bronze bushing Back in the 80's for the pedal hanger from 1st 66 before the roller kit became available and it's still working good