Some one help me....need place to prime and seal my car one more time!

[1990_LX]

It's cold out now and I can't spray in my garage so I'm looking for someone, or someplace that can/will just hit my car with a couple coats of primer and seal it for me. I will have it all blocked out and I have the primer, but I don't have money to bring it to a big name paint shop. Can anyone help out? Tell me how much you'd do it for and I'll save up for it.

 

[Kmoran81]

What kind of paint are you using? If your doing bc/cc you cant seal it unless you plan on top coating it within 24 hours. Otherwise you will have lifting issues. Youd be better off just throwing another coat of primer on it and waiting to seal it until your ready for topcoating.

That being said, if you feel like driving to Rochester, you can shoot it in my garage. It'll take me a few days to get it ready so let me know if you wanna do it. I have all the tools you need. If you dont have the primer yet, I got a great shop here that gives me good prices (PaintMasters)

 

[1990_LX]

I'm not sure what paint I'm going to use, but it's nopt going to be until spring/summer and I though you had to seal primer if it was going to be sitting for a while. I would take you up on your offer, but I'd have to trailer it and I don't have anything here that I would trust pulling a car that long. I have like 1/2 a gallon of primer left, since it's already been done, but I don't think any shops around here will use my primer if they do it.

 

[Kmoran81]

If its a good brand 2k primer (Chromabase, House of Kolor, Higher end PPG line) the primer will be fine over the Winter as long as its out of the elements. But you cannot seal the car unless you plan on top coating within 24 hours. Once that sealer dries your screwed and you will have to sand it back off and re-apply it before top coating. Some people will say that its fine if you re-scuff it with 600 before topcoating it will be fine, but thats not my experience.

Remember the most important part of painting a car: FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER DATA SHEETS!!!!

 

[1990_LX]

The primer I have is Finish 1 2K high build DTM....4:1 mixing ratio. It was $150 for the gallon so it damn well better be good lol. Once I ht it with thins and go back and work on some more body work later on, can I just use the cheaper primer on top of it?

 

[Kmoran81]

$150 a gallon is CHEAP. Good primer will run you roughly $130-$150 a quart with the activator. (4:1) If this is your first time painting a car I would highly suggest you buy better materials. They are much more forgiving and easier to spray than cheap stuff.

Honestly, I would block the car as it is right now and in the spring shoot it with a better primer and definitely a better bc/cc. You will find that the better quality paint you buy, the better the coverage will be. (which in the end evens out the extra cost, because you only have to use half the material you would with cheapo stuff) Not to mention the fact that its easier to shoot and is more forgiving (less curtains)

You may not believe me now, but when you get ready to shoot the clear coat you will understand.

Chromabase is an awesome paint. Its decently priced and covers well. You dont have to go out and buy House of Kolor paint (its about $350 a quart depending on the color) to get a good paint job. But on the other hand, you dont want it to look like Macco did it either

 

[dsblk93gt]

The PPG Shopline stuff is good on a budget, or the PPG Nason stuff.

 

[Kmoran81]

The PPG Shopline stuff is good on a budget, or the PPG Nason stuff.

Nason is a Dupont line, Not PPG

 

[1990_LX]

Well I'm not building a show car, but I want it to look decent. WEith bare metal, it's not a garage that is temperature controlled and dehumidified, so it just surface rusts in all the bare metal parts which is why I want something on it.

 

[dsblk93gt]

Nason is a Dupont line, Not PPG

Yes it was a typo. I like PPG Deltron and the DuPont chromabase, but the DuPont is $$$. Alot of guys use the Chromabase base coat with the Nason clear. My 1st car was done in Deltron back in '95 and it looked awesome. The 2nd car my father and I did we used the Chromabase. We used the tinted DuPont sealer as well. I can't remember what it is called that was in '99 or '98. I used alot of the PPG Omni with no issues, some guys didn't like it but I never had problems.

 

[Kmoran81]

Well I'm not building a show car, but I want it to look decent. WEith bare metal, it's not a garage that is temperature controlled and dehumidified, so it just surface rusts in all the bare metal parts which is why I want something on it.

Oooooh Why did you take the car to bare metal??? If thats the case you need to put a good etch primer on it before a high build!!! The so called "DTM" primer that you purchased is not made for large surface area applications. When a manufacturer advertises "DTM" on their product, they do not mean it to be for entire panels of bare metal. "DTM" means that its a high build primer that will stick to bare metal in small areas at a time (example: Your blocking your quarter panel and you burn through to bare metal on a high spot.) Thats what your use DTM for. NOT ENTIRE PANELS. If you took an entire panel to bare metal you have to use an etch primer or an epoxy primer BEFORE a high build.

 

[Kmoran81]

And by the way, if it has been sitting bare metal since you started this thread it is already flash rusted and you will have to scuff it again. Flash rust can happen in as little as 1.5 hours in a high humidity area

 

[dsblk93gt]

DuPont used to have some awesome etching primer but I don't know if the still have it or not.

 

[1990_LX]

The whole thing isn't bare metal, but there are decent amounts that were.

 

[1990_LX]

I didn't take any entire panels to bare metal, just fixed highs and lows.

 

[Kmoran81]

DuPont used to have some awesome etching primer but I don't know if the still have it or not.

They still make it but only in the ChromaPremier line. Which is the VERY high end line. Extremely pricey!!!

The Nason Etch is good stuff

 

[Kmoran81]

If I were you, heres what I would do:


Nason Etch on the bare metal
Nason 2k Build primer
Chromabase BC
Chromabase Snap Dry Clear

Just pay attention to the data sheets and you'll be fine.

 

[1990_LX]

I'm new to this stuff, and in all honesty I regret starting this body work, but I also like it from what I'm learning by do it. What about the bare metal spots that I already primed with the 2K stuff I have now? Can I leave that and block the whole car and hit the current bare metal spots with that Nason Etch and then hit the whole thing with the Nason 2K?

 

[1990_LX]

Also, I read that if you have sanded the metal, then you don't need etch primer...etch primer is for new shiny metal.

 

[Kmoran81]

I'm new to this stuff, and in all honesty I regret starting this body work, but I also like it from what I'm learning by do it. What about the bare metal spots that I already primed with the 2K stuff I have now? Can I leave that and block the whole car and hit the current bare metal spots with that Nason Etch and then hit the whole thing with the Nason 2K?

If you dont have huge spots of bare metal thejn I wouldnt bother. The DTM will stick to it.

Also, I read that if you have sanded the metal, then you don't need etch primer...etch primer is for new shiny metal.

Some guys think that. Im not one of them. Besides, primer is the base to which your entire paint job bites into. Do you really wanna find out the hard way that its not sticking? i.e. Having your entire paint job lift off the car in 2 months?