Looking for F/I ideas
- Thread starter Wicked One
- Start date
I hope you are considering the bottom end of your motor and fuel delivery. The general consensus is our motors are only good for 450hp, higher than that you should consider forged internals. You'll also need to think about a KB Boost A Pump (http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm) or GT500 Dual Fuel Pumps cause when you hammer it with those high boost s/c's it's gonna go lean and you know what that means (kaboom!)
The tune makes a huge difference, but I think 500 rwhp on the stock bottom end is really pushing your luck. The Roush P51 has their new TVS 2300 blower and puts out 510hp/510ft-lb, at the crank, but they crack the motor and put in a forged crank, forged H rods and forged aluminum pistons so you can still get the 3 year warranty. You can push these stock 3V's to 500hp but you significantly shorten the life of the motor.
Here is a article on connecting rods I found interesting
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/16280/connecting_rods_so_many_choices.aspx
Although Torque is a big killer of rods, a increase in rpm's by 10% can add 40% loading to the rods.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/16280/connecting_rods_so_many_choices.aspx
Although Torque is a big killer of rods, a increase in rpm's by 10% can add 40% loading to the rods.
My .02.....I would go with the Kenne Bell or Whipple. Both great blowers. If you get the full kit, it will come with everything you are going to need, injectors, pump/bap, etc. I would try to stay around/under 450 rwhp. This seems to be the limit for the mod motors with stock internals. In a bunch of years after you spin a bearing, go ahead and have the bottom end built. You only have >10k miles on your car now. You will be fine for quite a while.....especially considering you are going with a TS. You don't need to wind it and don't go to the track much, so the chances of missing a gear are less likely. The money you would spend on a forged bottom end would probably be better spent now on suspension mods. Tune is key in any FI application.
From what ive read on other forums the Eddlebrock TVS is officially out on the street but they have only shipped a handfull of units to preffered customers and speed shops, it seems like they are looking for some more real world testing before they start shipping them in quantity.
What i DO like about the Eddlebrock for YOUR set up (and mine) is it makes about 450hp with only 5lbs of Boost and its a TVS so it will make most of its power down low, seems like its the most "Stock Internals" friendly option and it does have a 7 lbs pulley upgrade so you can get some more out of it when you it comes time to cracking open your engine and forging your internals. Every other FI set up seems to be pushing 8 lbs out of the box.
I had a Roots bower on my last car, 93 T-Bird Super Coupe, having the power down low is a lot of fun and they sound AWESOME! The only problem is it created WAY too much heat, even with an intercooler but the internals were forged from the factory, the Head gasket was the weakest link.
I really want to do cams first and FI later but the Lopey cams dont work as well with FI as they do NA, you dont want to have to swap Cams twice or headers for that matter.
Our cars make power from 3k RPM upwards, making power down low will balance that out, thats why i think a TVS will be the way to go.
What i DO like about the Eddlebrock for YOUR set up (and mine) is it makes about 450hp with only 5lbs of Boost and its a TVS so it will make most of its power down low, seems like its the most "Stock Internals" friendly option and it does have a 7 lbs pulley upgrade so you can get some more out of it when you it comes time to cracking open your engine and forging your internals. Every other FI set up seems to be pushing 8 lbs out of the box.
I had a Roots bower on my last car, 93 T-Bird Super Coupe, having the power down low is a lot of fun and they sound AWESOME! The only problem is it created WAY too much heat, even with an intercooler but the internals were forged from the factory, the Head gasket was the weakest link.
I really want to do cams first and FI later but the Lopey cams dont work as well with FI as they do NA, you dont want to have to swap Cams twice or headers for that matter.
Our cars make power from 3k RPM upwards, making power down low will balance that out, thats why i think a TVS will be the way to go.
Wow, I don't know how I missed this post before. I gotta stay on top of this forum more. LOL
Another hat for the Twin-Screw ring - Saleen. I chose it for several reasons: Quietest whine (I like to sneak up on my victims, though the exhaust kinda messed that up), and stock-looking appearance. It looks like it BELONGS there. Black, wrinkle finish, long intake runners, pulley below the throttle body (so you can't see it unless you look under the inlet tube), and the TB is in the front, in the center, almost in the stock location (it's just raised a little).
If you do not plan on EVER wanting to make more than 16 PSI, then Saleen might be a good choice. Brenspeed and JDM both do EXCELLENT work (Brenspeed did mine, ultra-safe tune and a/f on the dyno). The base kit makes like 4.5 pounds which will get you to around 380-390 wheels. I added a smaller pulley, injectors, a CAI, and a custom dyno tune to get where I am. I'm still running the stock bottom end, but I don't beat the car on a regular basis (once a week or so I'll get on it on the highway).
No matter WHICH blower you decide, you'll need a new clutch. Trust me. After having the Saleen on for one season, my clutch is SHOT. Car has 25k on the clock.
Between Whipple and KB, my vote is Whipple. The cases are aluminum, so they bleed heat better than KBs. A local guy here has a KB, and it's just one giant heat sink. One more shot at KB - Saleen cars are OEM and are sold with a warranty. Whipple makes the blowers for Ford's kits. KB? Aftermarket only, no drivetrain warranty..
Speaking of warranty, if you get a Ford-branded Whipple kit, and have it installed at a dealership, you can keep your drivetrain warranty (or a portion thereof). You can also get a 12,000 mile warranty (I think - or maybe it's the balance of OE?) if you have the STOCK Saleen blower installed by Brenspeed or JDM. There is also a Saleen Extreme blower which will keep your warranty and get you 475 crank HP. The stock Saleen kit is rated for 435 crank, IIRC.
Roush?
It's a roots. Yuck. Loud, hot, and ugly.
Either way, unless you're planning to go all out and do the bottom end and make it a track-only car, any of the kits mentioned will provide more than enough power to have enough fun on the street to land you in the clink.
Another hat for the Twin-Screw ring - Saleen. I chose it for several reasons: Quietest whine (I like to sneak up on my victims, though the exhaust kinda messed that up), and stock-looking appearance. It looks like it BELONGS there. Black, wrinkle finish, long intake runners, pulley below the throttle body (so you can't see it unless you look under the inlet tube), and the TB is in the front, in the center, almost in the stock location (it's just raised a little).
If you do not plan on EVER wanting to make more than 16 PSI, then Saleen might be a good choice. Brenspeed and JDM both do EXCELLENT work (Brenspeed did mine, ultra-safe tune and a/f on the dyno). The base kit makes like 4.5 pounds which will get you to around 380-390 wheels. I added a smaller pulley, injectors, a CAI, and a custom dyno tune to get where I am. I'm still running the stock bottom end, but I don't beat the car on a regular basis (once a week or so I'll get on it on the highway).
No matter WHICH blower you decide, you'll need a new clutch. Trust me. After having the Saleen on for one season, my clutch is SHOT. Car has 25k on the clock.
Between Whipple and KB, my vote is Whipple. The cases are aluminum, so they bleed heat better than KBs. A local guy here has a KB, and it's just one giant heat sink. One more shot at KB - Saleen cars are OEM and are sold with a warranty. Whipple makes the blowers for Ford's kits. KB? Aftermarket only, no drivetrain warranty..
Speaking of warranty, if you get a Ford-branded Whipple kit, and have it installed at a dealership, you can keep your drivetrain warranty (or a portion thereof). You can also get a 12,000 mile warranty (I think - or maybe it's the balance of OE?) if you have the STOCK Saleen blower installed by Brenspeed or JDM. There is also a Saleen Extreme blower which will keep your warranty and get you 475 crank HP. The stock Saleen kit is rated for 435 crank, IIRC.
Roush?
It's a roots. Yuck. Loud, hot, and ugly.Either way, unless you're planning to go all out and do the bottom end and make it a track-only car, any of the kits mentioned will provide more than enough power to have enough fun on the street to land you in the clink.
Well the one on my 06 is billet. They do deliver a polished one though. Pricey but looks great
Here is supporting information from the KB site
BILLET CONSTRUCTION
There is nothing like the "billet whine" of a KB in boost. Cast case superchargers have a more muffled sound. Besides it’s hi-tech, intimidating and expensive appearance, the billet Kenne Bell supercharger is stronger - at any boost and rpm level. Any engineer, engine builder or hot rodder prefers billet. Consider this. If billet wasn’t a superior concept, then billions of consumers hard earned dollars has been wasted on upgrading from lower cost less durable cast to stronger billet components e.g. rods, cranks, gears, cams, rocker arms, pumps, shafts, etc., etc. These are not lower cost mass production OEM cast Roots type superchargers and drives “adapted” to the aftermarket. Both are, instead, limited production CNC machined 100% billet aluminum and steel. Even the bypass valve is billet. The inlet and discharge openings are precision machined for optimum and consistent air flow. Only the front cover is cast as it merely stores the supercharger oil. The drive is also 100% billet.
Here is supporting information from the KB site
BILLET CONSTRUCTION
There is nothing like the "billet whine" of a KB in boost. Cast case superchargers have a more muffled sound. Besides it’s hi-tech, intimidating and expensive appearance, the billet Kenne Bell supercharger is stronger - at any boost and rpm level. Any engineer, engine builder or hot rodder prefers billet. Consider this. If billet wasn’t a superior concept, then billions of consumers hard earned dollars has been wasted on upgrading from lower cost less durable cast to stronger billet components e.g. rods, cranks, gears, cams, rocker arms, pumps, shafts, etc., etc. These are not lower cost mass production OEM cast Roots type superchargers and drives “adapted” to the aftermarket. Both are, instead, limited production CNC machined 100% billet aluminum and steel. Even the bypass valve is billet. The inlet and discharge openings are precision machined for optimum and consistent air flow. Only the front cover is cast as it merely stores the supercharger oil. The drive is also 100% billet.
