HELP!! My Pony Won't Start!!! D:

[JanessaMarie92]

looooong story, but my 05 V6 Mustang won't turn over.

Everything was running fine until I came out from Wendy's the other day. I tried to start my car and all that happened was a clicking noise. After several failed attempts I decided to get a jump. She started, but the computer was being weird: lights blinking, windows wouldn't roll up, and accelerator didn't do anything at all (you would press it to the floor with no response). She was starting under her own power until the day I got it towed. Couldn't drive her anywhere but she would start, still computer being screwy and the little wrench light, signifying electronic throttle control, was on. Towed her to the Ford Dealership in Fayetteville and they said that the throttle body butterfly had seized, which could very well cause it to act the way she was and of course had a list of "recommended maintence". So I got fuel injectors and a new fuel filter and towed her to my house to do the rest thinking it would save us about $700. Ordered a BBK throttle body and put that bad boy on last night. Went to start her up and NOTHING! Just clicking like it can't turn over and the wrench light is still there. I have no idea what it could be PLEASE HELP! I have heard starter, alternater, A WHOLE RANGE of things and I am so irrtated! I just want my baby back on the road! Please help me to diagnose what is wrong.

 

[Wicked One]

Here is the TSB

Check the passenger side foot well for dampness or just plain wet. If that is the case, the SJB (smart junction box) got wet.

Under the cowl there are 10 drains that get clogged up and need to be cleaned out.

Here is the procedure for the main drain.

First pull off the passenger side windshield cowl panel:

It is held on by two of those plastic fasteners with phillips head screws in them. I didn't have a screwdriver, but my pocket knife worked just fine:

On the bottom side, it had four or five of those plastic snaps. The one all the way on the right, near the antenna, requires some delicacy... you have to lift it up and away from the windshield, but it's kinda tucked under the fender there. Be gentle:

The cabin air filter is in the cavity that the cowl panel was covering. You remove it by lifting up on the top lip of the filter housing:

When it's unclipped at the top, just tilt it forward and lift it out:

Filter is out, and there's room to work:

Do you think the filter was dirty?

I mean, seriously... this is nasty. Incidentally, these are locating pins on the bottom of the filter. You'll have to line these up with the holes in the housing when you reinstall the filter:

Next, I just reached in that cavity and started fishing out the crap by hand. (a lot like cleaning out a gutter on the roof of your house, same stuff inside too) The water was about 3 or 4 inches deep. That's where the water inside the car was coming from. It poured through the cabin air filter and into the interior behind the glove box. Not only can this make your carpet nasty and mildewy, but it can destroy the BCM or whatever it is back there behind the passenger side kick panel. I've heard of people's power windows and dash lights getting messed up from the water leak. Anyway, here's some of the crap I fished outta there:

I've never done this before, so I had to feel around to find the rubber drain. Horizontally, it's halfway between the battery box and the passenger side valve cover. When I was feeling around for it, I accidentally pushed it out the bottom of the cowl. It fell out onto the passenger side exhaust manifold. It wasn't hard to reach from the engine compartment though. Here's a picture of me sticking my fingers through the hole where the drain plug was:

This is the drain hole from just in front of the cabin air filter housing:

Close up of the opening:

Uh, yeah, it was slightly clogged:

It was bulging with leaf stems and other crap:

I dumped out its contents:

Then I washed it out in the restroom sink. God doesn't mind. Besides, I wiped the sink down after I washed off the drain plug.

All better!

Then I put the cleaned plug back in:

The reassembly process was the opposite of the disassembly process. No problems! The whole thing was maybe 20 minutes total, taking my time, and with no tools. Of course, I didn't have a cabin air filter with me since this deal just sort of hit me with no warning, but Advance Auto Parts sells them for about $21.


Good luck.

 

[Wicked One]

Here is also how to fix the drains in the cowl. The above was for the main drain.

Well I start by opening the hood, and locate the clips holding the cowel cover. use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the center pin then remove the hold down clip. Remove the plastic cover.

Notice the water, thats the leaking area..

To remove the Grommits use a screwdriver to push the pin and pry up.

Once removed you can clean and put aside, if you find some broken gaskets you can make one out of a electrical cover (wet location) gasket. See slide #9 below

Remove the Driver side cover as well, use a piller to remove the wiper arms..

In this slide you can see the Water in the hole, I blew it out with an air tool.

Now the TSB Says Not to use SILICONE, use TA-2 Motorcraft Urethane Adheseve / Seam sealer, Well at $58.00 and I had to order it, I thought it was a bit steep and I needed it now, So I called NAPA and they have the Urethane sealent for $12.00 Also a new Grommet and Gasket is $7.86 Each. I made my own..

If you find some broken gaskets you can make one out of a electrical cover (wet location) gasket

This Sealent is the DEVILS SPAWN !! it gets on everything and stains your skin so wear gloves.

Apply a small amount of the sealer around the holes, slip the Gasket on the grommet then press into the hole until you hear the clips click, do not push too hard you will push the sealent out and may create a gap.

If you get some sealent on a surface or hands it can be cleaned up with Mineral Spirits.

Follow this process for all ten grommets and replace the covers and your set. No More leaks, We Hope.

 

[iiiiiiijklmm]

Thanks for the reply... and nice house


but we figured it out... all i needed was to fix the spring in the throttle body... go figure... got a new TB cuz that's what ford said to do... and they lied... o well i got the part i wanted

BUT

now if i get on it, at about 55 ish my electronic throttle control light comes on, and cuts out the acceleration... so i have to pull over and turn the car off, and turn the car on again and then go... and the two codes from the CEL were like PO171, and PO16V i believe... anyone get those?