fuel line
- Thread starter mrkidyid
- Start date
Sorry. It goes in the engine compartment left side near tire through a small hole. The black tubing is going thru the hole not the metal gas line itself. The gas line falls short of the hole. Can I just get longer tubing? Or does the metal gas line need to go thru the hole? How do u bend a gas line w/o crimping? thanx
well when i ran carb i used all rubber fuel safe lines,,,at only 6 -9 psi hose clamps will do with just longer hose,,,or if u just get longer metal tube would be fine as well,,,idk about fuel line but i usually would just use like a softball to bend it around for my brake lines,,,just make sure u take ur time and double check ,or they have a 2 wheeled tool at auto store for bending tubing without crimping
Hey Paul,
I think you should post a list of things you want/need to do to get your car going.We can then help put it into priorities,The more info the better on your car. I know you ordered a new carburetor, I specifically asked about the general condition of the rest of the fuel system in your car. I'll ask some specific questions, I know the car was not running right,hence the new carb. That said did the car sit for a long time period before you bought it?Very often when I see cars sit, they usually end up needing new fuel tanks,senders, and full length fuel lines (the one from the fuel tak to the engine compartment). As scary as all of this sounds it is not the hardest thing in the world to change.I'm not saying that you need all of this, but if you have a questionable fuel tank and main fuel line you can put a new carb or rebuilt carb on every week and you will be getting stuck on the side of the road.
As far as fuel lines, as stated they should not be kinked, I also am not a fan of using a rubber hose to replace the line, if your line is bad, I would say to either order one or make one using line from the autoparts store,I can and will advise you as well as others no matter which way you want /need to go. If your line and tank are questionable at all PLEASE DO NOT CRANK THE SYSTEM AND PUMP BAD FUEL INTO YOUR NEW CARB.If you do that you will have to take the carb apart and clean it out or have to send it out to someone which will cost $.I'm a big fan of not wasting $. I can and will tell you a very easy way to bypass that stuff to get the car running(not driving,but at least idling).
I think you should post a list of things you want/need to do to get your car going.We can then help put it into priorities,The more info the better on your car. I know you ordered a new carburetor, I specifically asked about the general condition of the rest of the fuel system in your car. I'll ask some specific questions, I know the car was not running right,hence the new carb. That said did the car sit for a long time period before you bought it?Very often when I see cars sit, they usually end up needing new fuel tanks,senders, and full length fuel lines (the one from the fuel tak to the engine compartment). As scary as all of this sounds it is not the hardest thing in the world to change.I'm not saying that you need all of this, but if you have a questionable fuel tank and main fuel line you can put a new carb or rebuilt carb on every week and you will be getting stuck on the side of the road.
As far as fuel lines, as stated they should not be kinked, I also am not a fan of using a rubber hose to replace the line, if your line is bad, I would say to either order one or make one using line from the autoparts store,I can and will advise you as well as others no matter which way you want /need to go. If your line and tank are questionable at all PLEASE DO NOT CRANK THE SYSTEM AND PUMP BAD FUEL INTO YOUR NEW CARB.If you do that you will have to take the carb apart and clean it out or have to send it out to someone which will cost $.I'm a big fan of not wasting $. I can and will tell you a very easy way to bypass that stuff to get the car running(not driving,but at least idling).
Last edited:
Hey Ponyboy,
The car was sitting for about 3 yrs. The owner did put in a new fuel tank. I checked the fuel line and it is kinked. I will replace forth with. The tank does look very new. If the tank is new will the sender be new? If not how do I check the sender. I filled car up from 1/4 tank when I purchased to full. (regular). Over heated after 100 mph. I have 1/4 tank left. So I'm assuming all the old gas might be out?
My friend told me to only use reg. gas and add a lead additive to tank. I was going to add an additive to clean gas out. What's the deal w/ that?
The car was sitting for about 3 yrs. The owner did put in a new fuel tank. I checked the fuel line and it is kinked. I will replace forth with. The tank does look very new. If the tank is new will the sender be new? If not how do I check the sender. I filled car up from 1/4 tank when I purchased to full. (regular). Over heated after 100 mph. I have 1/4 tank left. So I'm assuming all the old gas might be out?
My friend told me to only use reg. gas and add a lead additive to tank. I was going to add an additive to clean gas out. What's the deal w/ that?
Did the owner put a new tank in it ,put gas in it and then it sat for 3 years? I ask because personally I think (as well as a ton of car friends of mine,who are way smarter than I) that this new gas does not hold up very well,so if you have any three year old gas in the system you are potentially asking for trouble.If it were my car I would at least unhook the fuel filler neck and take a look in the tank. As far as is the sender new? Who knows? One way would be to crawl under the car and see if it at least looks as new as the tank?
Additives and octane, I wouldn't worry about that stuff until you're actually driving the car,get it running and then worry about. If /when you drive the car if it pings then you would want to adjust the timing or up the octane depending. As far as lead additives,that's up to you? I absolutely do not religiously run them, I do it if/when I think about it. If you don't run lead in the gas of these old cars the valves receed into the head,which is why people have hardened valve seats installed when they have their heads redone . For fun I have one car that I have never used lead additives in, I've done this for about 20 years and who knows how many miles? We'll call it my own test,the engine doesn't appear to have any issues? If/when it does,it's a stock 289 and I have about 14 pairs of replacement heads sitting on the shelf so I'll just replace the heads.
Fuel line so you're going to replace the full length line? Although they aren't cheap, you might want to consider buying the actual full length repo line and proper clips from your favorite Mustang parts supplier? If you decide to go all out, maybe go stainless. If you go this route you will never ever have to mess with the line again.
Additives and octane, I wouldn't worry about that stuff until you're actually driving the car,get it running and then worry about. If /when you drive the car if it pings then you would want to adjust the timing or up the octane depending. As far as lead additives,that's up to you? I absolutely do not religiously run them, I do it if/when I think about it. If you don't run lead in the gas of these old cars the valves receed into the head,which is why people have hardened valve seats installed when they have their heads redone . For fun I have one car that I have never used lead additives in, I've done this for about 20 years and who knows how many miles? We'll call it my own test,the engine doesn't appear to have any issues? If/when it does,it's a stock 289 and I have about 14 pairs of replacement heads sitting on the shelf so I'll just replace the heads.
Fuel line so you're going to replace the full length line? Although they aren't cheap, you might want to consider buying the actual full length repo line and proper clips from your favorite Mustang parts supplier? If you decide to go all out, maybe go stainless. If you go this route you will never ever have to mess with the line again.
Last edited: