Build Thread! enjoy
- Thread starter BlackStang14
- Start date
I was being sarcastic about the plate.
Dude, I didnt copy you, I liked the body kit on EMAYs ride before you even got it. Its not my fault we both have awesome taste.
Theres differences in our cars dude.
Im ordering the end of the month with taxes and what not.
What made you do the TT? Looks good man.
Alright well I just got:
-3 pod pillar $30
-AEM Fuel Pressure gauge $185
-Ford Racing Water temp Gauge $75
-AEM Boost Gauge $144
-63lb Seimens Deka injectors $400
-MSD 2 step $100
Heres the new progress/
Some Goodies:
We Pulled the oil pan by dropping the front steering rack and raising the motor by the crank pulley...
First we had semi traced it on the car, so we knew where the drain lines would match too... Then we made a better trace off the car and just slowly drilled it out...
After the holes were drilled we used the gasket it came with some silicone gasket maker and topped it off with red loctite all over the bolt...
-3 pod pillar $30
-AEM Fuel Pressure gauge $185
-Ford Racing Water temp Gauge $75
-AEM Boost Gauge $144
-63lb Seimens Deka injectors $400
-MSD 2 step $100
Heres the new progress/
Some Goodies:
We Pulled the oil pan by dropping the front steering rack and raising the motor by the crank pulley...
First we had semi traced it on the car, so we knew where the drain lines would match too... Then we made a better trace off the car and just slowly drilled it out...
After the holes were drilled we used the gasket it came with some silicone gasket maker and topped it off with red loctite all over the bolt...
I am thoroughly impressed by all the work you have done, especially the fabricating of brackets to meet your needs. Where did you learn to do all of this? Are you mechanic for a living? Curious as to why the GT500 injectors didn't fit. Really, looking forward to the finished project. Twin turbo will definetly make you stand out in the crowd. Are you doing anything suspension wise in the future to make sure you get those tires to hold all that Hp on the ground? Best of luck and keep'em coming to help those of us who are too afraid to change their own oil. 
I am thoroughly impressed by all the work you have done, especially the fabricating of brackets to meet your needs. Where did you learn to do all of this? Are you mechanic for a living? Curious as to why the GT500 injectors didn't fit. Really, looking forward to the finished project. Twin turbo will definetly make you stand out in the crowd. Are you doing anything suspension wise in the future to make sure you get those tires to hold all that Hp on the ground? Best of luck and keep'em coming to help those of us who are too afraid to change their own oil.
See how they are about a inch off... These will work amazing with any super charger setup!!
As for all the fabricating, in all honesty I am 21 and just have been working and reading about these cars since I was 16... BUT! I am not the brains behind this operation. MY best friend is Crew chief/Lead Fabricator for the ALMAS series Dyson Racing!
He is 24 himself and just amazing at what he does (1000+hp S10) and works on multi million dollar race cars for a living.
For me even though he is a close friend it is an honor for him to be working on my car...
In the end I just wrench away hes the brains... He is rubbing off on me though!!!
He has a shop, so anyone who needs work let me know!
Hey man everything looks great, but I have 1 concern. Now, I do not know much about the modular 3 valve motors and how high the oil comes up in the oil pan when full, so what I am going to tell you take with a grain of salt
I think that the oil drain flanges are placed a little low in the oil pan, remember the oil coming out of the turbos has to free flow into the oil pan (usually in a foamy state) and cannot have oil behind the drain (in the pan) or the it is not going to drain properly and could blow oil out the turbo seals.
Like I said I don't really know much about these motors, I am just going by the placement of the drain flange in relation to the low oil sensor.
Oh, and if you were going to remove the pan from the car you should have welded the fittings to the pan instead of bolting them.
Now, don't get discouraged. I might not be an issue at all. I just thought I should give you my $0.02 so that IF it is a problem you can address it now rather than later
Good luck! and keep us posted.
I think that the oil drain flanges are placed a little low in the oil pan, remember the oil coming out of the turbos has to free flow into the oil pan (usually in a foamy state) and cannot have oil behind the drain (in the pan) or the it is not going to drain properly and could blow oil out the turbo seals.
Like I said I don't really know much about these motors, I am just going by the placement of the drain flange in relation to the low oil sensor.
Oh, and if you were going to remove the pan from the car you should have welded the fittings to the pan instead of bolting them.
Now, don't get discouraged. I might not be an issue at all. I just thought I should give you my $0.02 so that IF it is a problem you can address it now rather than later
Good luck! and keep us posted.
I went to the Vortech website and pulled the installation instructions for one of their blower kits for the 3 valve motor and got you this pic that shows their recommended placement of a drain fitting.
You can see they recommend the center of the drain fitting to be 5/8 from the top of the flange, which means that the top of the fitting is only ~3/8 of an inch from the top of the oil pan.
What you can do is remove the drain hoses from the pan, fill the oil pan with the normal amount of oil the car uses and see if any comes out the drain flanges. If it does the pan needs to come back out to relocate the drain flanges a little higher and if you can more towards the front of the car. IF you do have to remove the pan again, get steel fittings and weld them to the pan (assuming the pan is steel and not aluminum, if aluminum then get aluminum fittings to weld on, duhh)
If no oil comes out, you are golden
You can see they recommend the center of the drain fitting to be 5/8 from the top of the flange, which means that the top of the fitting is only ~3/8 of an inch from the top of the oil pan.
What you can do is remove the drain hoses from the pan, fill the oil pan with the normal amount of oil the car uses and see if any comes out the drain flanges. If it does the pan needs to come back out to relocate the drain flanges a little higher and if you can more towards the front of the car. IF you do have to remove the pan again, get steel fittings and weld them to the pan (assuming the pan is steel and not aluminum, if aluminum then get aluminum fittings to weld on, duhh)
If no oil comes out, you are golden
Oh, ok cool ! if that's what the instructions say then you should be good to go.
Can't wait 'till you get this thing running!. I promise you that you will never, ever want to drive another vehicle unless it has a turbo. You'll see
! if that's what the instructions say then you should be good to go. Can't wait 'till you get this thing running!. I promise you that you will never, ever want to drive another vehicle unless it has a turbo. You'll see
I just wish it was externally wastegated for sound lol...