89 LX distributor gear issue

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beex5.0

Member
#1
#1
Got a 89 lx carb with a 86 block gunna run a 8579 MSD distributor but don't know if I need to change to a steel gear. Its a roller motor. Do I use the iron gear or do I have to switch it over?
 
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beex5.0

Member
#3
#3
dsblk93gt said:
I'd ditch the MSD idea, nobody I know has good luck with those distributors. But if you do get one you need a billet steel gear for it.
MSD Ignition 85834 - MSD Steel Distributor Gears - Application - SummitRacing.com

I know many guys run the '85 HO Mustang distributor that are running carbed since it is electronic ignition and vacuum advance.
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Yea I bought the mustang with a 6al and blaster and stock distributor with a msd cap. The car doesn't wanna turn over but does crank. autozone tried to say my 200 amp powermaster was busted those are suppose to last forever.

But what's wrong with MSD. I was gunna get a summit distributor for now.
 
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beex5.0

Member
#4
#4
dsblk93gt said:
I'd ditch the MSD idea, nobody I know has good luck with those distributors. But if you do get one you need a billet steel gear for it.
MSD Ignition 85834 - MSD Steel Distributor Gears - Application - SummitRacing.com

I know many guys run the '85 HO Mustang distributor that are running carbed since it is electronic ignition and vacuum advance.
Click to expand...
Yea I bought the mustang with a 6al and blaster and stock distributor with a msd cap. The car doesn't wanna turn over but does crank. autozone tried to say my 200 amp powermaster was busted those are suppose to last forever.

But what's wrong with MSD. I was gunna get a summit distributor for now.
 
dsblk93gt

dsblk93gt

5.0 Moderator
#5
#5
I have just heard a lot of people having issues with them, google MSD distributor 5.0 Mustang or something similar you will see.

So it turns over but doesn't fire? Is the coil working?
 
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beex5.0

Member
#6
#6
dsblk93gt said:
I have just heard a lot of people having issues with them, google MSD distributor 5.0 Mustang or something similar you will see.

So it turns over but doesn't fire? Is the coil working?
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It'll crank like the battery is dying and choke whenever I pump the carb. The coil is held together by tape gunna change it but the car was running fine but the idle was high (no tac as this is a conversion car. Ne quick fixes?) We got the car running but then it started acting up. Duralst red top battery was fine and my powermaster "failed". Did shoot a flame through the carb tho so its timing and spark related. And the vaccums are like a ridiculous maze
 
stanginthe11s

stanginthe11s

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
there are no problems with msd dist. when it comes to carbs. the problem msd had was with the ign. modules on th f.i units. in 20 years of racing I have only had one problem with a pickup going bad and that was my fault. on another note no distributor in the world will fix the problem youre having if you are not sure on how to set it up or check/verify that everything is working.
 
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beex5.0

Member
#8
#8
stanginthe11s said:
there are no problems with msd dist. when it comes to carbs. the problem msd had was with the ign. modules on th f.i units. in 20 years of racing I have only had one problem with a pickup going bad and that was my fault. on another note no distributor in the world will fix the problem youre having if you are not sure on how to set it up or check/verify that everything is working.
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The carb is fine adjusted it and tuned it and got the idle straight. However when I saw the alternator hook up it looks like the two modules were spliced together and connected to the power hookup on the alternator. Can I delete those and just run it from the battery to the powermaster? Because I think that's y I'm having so much power drain on start up and the fact my spark is low and it cranks so slowly.
 
stanginthe11s

stanginthe11s

Well-Known Member
#9
#9
check grounds before anything. at least one back of motor to firewall and the battery ground should go to the block and be a 2ga wire. adding extra grounds from the motor to chassis is never a bad thing as well as from the batt. to the chassis. one of the most common mistakes with swaps is grounds and that will cause a slow or no crank, weak spark and heavy draw on the battery.
 
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beex5.0

Member
#10
#10
stanginthe11s said:
check grounds before anything. at least one back of motor to firewall and the battery ground should go to the block and be a 2ga wire. adding extra grounds from the motor to chassis is never a bad thing as well as from the batt. to the chassis. one of the most common mistakes with swaps is grounds and that will cause a slow or no crank, weak spark and heavy draw on the battery.
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Ok I'm going to check all of tht tomorrow. I had to cut the corroded part of the ground and fix tht. So tht should b on the block and there should also b another ground hooked up?
 
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beex5.0

Member
#12
#12
dsblk93gt said:
What powermaster alternator is it? 200amp 3G?
Ford

Like said above check the grounds. You should have at least a 4 gauge power wire going to that as well, or you will end up cooking something. I have a 4 gauge wire and an inline fuse with my 6G alternator.


This is what I have...from this guy since he sells the wiring kits separate
'87~'93 3G Alternator Upgrade Complete Kit - Corral.net : Ford Mustang Forums
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Yea from what I remember I got it from CJ its a 200 amp using the stock ford alternator wire to the solenoid. Everytime we tried cranking the car the power wire gets really hot to the touch.
 
stanginthe11s

stanginthe11s

Well-Known Member
#17
#17
if the wire gets hot on crank then you have ground problems, its not going to have anything to do with an alt. since an alt doesnt play any part in the starting system.
 
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