Thanks Stu.
I have been looking for a new steering wheel for a while since rebuilding the steering column but could not quite find what I wanted at a reasonable price. A member from another forum I am a member of offered me an extra steering wheel he had at a great price from a 1980 full size Bronco for my 69 Mustang. He had to modify the back side of the steering wheel & make a spacer for the horn & turn signal contacts to work on the Mustang. I am liking the look of it, it is a leather wrapper steering wheel that is just 1" smaller in diameter then the stock 69 wheel, & looks almost like the stock 1970 Mustang steering wheel.
In the process of putting my 69 Coupe back together I have decided I did not want the overhead dome light but wanted lights in either the side panels next to the rear seat back or make sail panels for the Coupe & mount them there. So I decided to make some sail panels. First I made a paper template, then transferred it to cardboard, made some changes & made another cardboard template & mounted the Mach-1 sail panel light in it & did a test fit. Here is what the current template looks like.
Today was in the low 40's here in south Jersey so I decided to take advantage of the mild day & roll the Mustang out of the garage take a current pic & sweep out the garage.
All your hard work is starting to pay off. I know there's a ton more work to do, but it has to put a smile on your face with every little little piece put into place.
Thanks Bruce. After 1st making a paper copy, then 2 cardboard templates, here is the final r/s custom sail panel for my 69 Coupe. I ordered 2 of the 69/70 Fastback sail panel lights to be mounted in the panels. Once I receive the lights I will determine their placement on the panel.
Yesterday the big brown truck brought me some goodies for the Mustang. 4.5 leaf mid-eye 1" lowering rear leaf springs, dual exhaust rear shackles, & Koni STR.T front & rear shocks.
It was in the low 50's today so I fired up the compressor & sand blasted the used hood hinges I purchased for the Mustang.
Thanks Stu, here is more. Yesterday I purchased 2 used lower radiator saddle brackets I was missing, cleaned off the surface rust, straightened one of them, painted them, installed them, & installed the radiator to test the fit, looks good to me.
Yesterday I painted the hood hinges & I installed them today along with the power brake booster/master cylinder assembly & hooked up the brake lines from the proportioning valve/distribution block to the master cylinder.
Today I was going to remove the rear axle assembly for a rebuild & replace the rear leaf springs, but I found the front leaf spring mounting bolt is rusted to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing so the bolt needs to be cut to be able to remove the leaf springs. So instead I installed the Koni STR T front shocks, & the hood latch support bracket.
Set the rear of the Mustang on jack stands & removed the rear bumper & the valance so I could get at the rear shackles easier. I soaked the rear leaf spring front bolts with rust bust & put my impact gun on the bolt, it will move but will NOT come out. Time to cut it.
Well I decided I did not like the Mustangs sitting on the jack stands under the rear torque boxes, they were going to be in my way to get at the front bolt for the rear leaf springs so I removed the old gas tank & placed 2 jack stands just inside the leaf springs & placed a 2x4 across the stands running under both frame rails & set the Mustang on it. Now I could remove the rear end assembly & the rear leaf springs.
Saturday I had the differential rebuilt w/trac-loc, 3.50 gears, & new axle bearings installed by 8and9inchfordrears in southwestern NJ. Today I started cutting the front bolt for the r/s rear leaf springs.
Today after work I started working on removing the r/s rear leaf spring front eyelet bolt that was rusted in the bushing. Using a 4 1/2" cut off wheel on my angle grinder I cut off most of the leaf spring to get it out of my way & was able to cut off the bolt end that the nut screws on to but could not get at the other end since the frame is in the way. I purchased a 7" cut off wheel & made a guard to protect my hands while cutting. With the larger wheel I was able to cut through the other end of the bolt & removed the rest of the leaf spring.