The plan changes yet again ...

[BAzombie]

Well guys my idea for a 5.3L NA build (http://www.newyorkmustangs.com/forums/380-rwhp-2v-n-possible-t27048.html ) is out the window. I just can't put the build I want together for the budget I have.

So on to bigger and better things.

The new build is an FI build.

MMR 750SE shortblock
ON3 Performance FF turbo kit ... On 3 Performance - Turbo Kits for Ford Mustangs
Using my stage II PI heads w/stock PI cams and intake.
I'm planning to use 60# injectors and I'm thinking 12-14 # boost looking to reach 550 rwhp.


Now I'm undecided about a fuel pump. Either a 255lph w/BAP or a 340lph. Just not sure which would be best for the return style system that the 96's have.

I also don't know what I need for a MAF or if I have to upgrade the stock valve springs for 14#'s boost?


Any ideas on the fuel pump, MAF or springs?

 

[TBapp3]

I love the idea! Turboed 8cyl. FTW! Unfortunately I'm no help on the fuel questions...but just a thought, have you considered running e85 with the set up??

​

 

[Noterminator]

Either fuel pump will work fine with the return system. The 255 would support 550hp just fine. Although if you ever plan on upping the power, the 340 would be better. Your biggest restrictions would be the fuel lines and the fuel rails. As far as an MAF, you could go with a BA-2400, or just find one you want and have it tuned for 60# injectors. Anderson Motorsports has a great selection of MAF's for all different applications. Your 60# injectors might not even needed, you could probably get away with 42-50lbers. As far as the springs you could probably get away with the stock springs if you wanted to, but if it were me I'd upgrade them just to be safe. You don't wanna go through with the build then end up having valve float. Either way, good luck with the build and keep us updated with pics.

 

[ShelbyGT]

if i was you, i'd probably do a lightning 90mm MAF and then call up Modular Head Shop for some valve springs. as for the feul pump, i'm not too sure on that one

 

[BAzombie]

Thanks for the info guys.

I forgot all about lines and rails when I posted this last night. I believe I read that stock lines and rails were good if you were staying under 600whp. Over that is pushing it.

I was thinking 60# injectors and a 340lph pump so I wouldn't be high in the duty cycle on them either but after doing some reading on the return style I thought a 255 w/bap might be a better option. I guess I'll shoot Pete @ Performance Dyno an email about the pump and injectors and get his opinion.

A set of springs are cheap(ish) so I'll add them onto the list.

Todd, with the new shortblock I can get rid of the 10.4 CR I have now and order a CR that's more boost friendly so E85 would not be needed.

My plans are to hit somewhere between 500 and 600 whp. I'm not sure how the rest of my stock drivetrain will like it but the driver should have a hell of a smile on his face.

 

[Noterminator]

Good luck with the build Burt. And remember we want progress pics lol.

 

[BAzombie]

I'll start ordering stuff sometime in January. I post up pics as it comes in. My build won't start until all pieces of it are received and ready to go. So probably not until the spring.

 

[Noterminator]

Awesome. Looking forward to it. We'll all be waiting I'm sure.

 

[TBapp3]

Just looking over your plans again zombie man... Just thinking once your get done with this you'll probably be pretty turbo smart, maybe well do mine after too! Lol

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[BAzombie]

Well the kit I'm getting is the same thing for your car too so you'll be able to see just what's needed. The main difference is our fuel systems. You have a returnless system and I have a return style system.

I'm finding out that I'll need a 99-04 tank with a return style hat and twin 255lph pumps minimum. The 99-04 tank is needed for the larger opening to fit twin in-tank pumps.


The bad part about my plan is NO LVD. Unless they let me just run the 1/8.

 

[ford20]

Well the kit I'm getting is the same thing for your car too so you'll be able to see just what's needed. The main difference is our fuel systems. You have a returnless system and I have a return style system.

I'm finding out that I'll need a 99-04 tank with a return style hat and twin 255lph pumps minimum. The 99-04 tank is needed for the larger opening to fit twin in-tank pumps.


The bad part about my plan is NO LVD. Unless they let me just run the 1/8.

If you are still back and forth on your fuel system I would recommend hitting up Jeremy at S&H Performance. They sell the On3 Performance Turbo Kits and they should be able to modify your hat and get you all set on your fuel system needs.

Also, I see a lot of S197 guys that buy the On3 system eventually upgrading their turbos to a higher quality one.

Get a rollcage with swingouts

 

[BAzombie]

I'm hoping to get a bolt in cage before the end of next season. Just not going to happen during the build.


After looking thru classifieds and different sites for fuel parts it looks like I'll be limited by what I can get my system to make. Unless I come across a smoking deal before I order parts.

Does anyone know if a 405lph will fit in a '96 hat without much modding. I'm thinking a 405lph w/ a BAP and set boost to whatever gets me around 85% dc. I would think that should get me close to 500whp.

Edit: 405lph pump needs a new hat. Looks like a 340lph is the biggest pump to fit a stock hat with some modding. The research continues.

 

[BAzombie]

Well I've been in contact with Pete@Performance Dyno over the last week and he doesn't foresee a problem with tuning for the 60# injectors. He'll also be able to provide me with a start-up tune so that's good news.

So my final build list consists of ...


MMR 750SE short block
On3 turbo w/67mm cBB turbo
MMR stage II ported PI heads
PI intake
PI cams
UPR tubular K frame w/coilovers
4" intercooler
60# injectors
340lph fuel pump w/BAP
HPX slot style Maf


I'll be adding A/F wideband, fuel pressure, boost/vac, and mechanical oil gauges set in a dual pillar and dual clock pods. I'll also be shopping for an instrument cluster from a 96-98 Cobra to carry white faced gauges thru out. I think they will go great with my black and white interior. Only thing that might change are the cams. Apparently stock cams work really good with turbos but if I stumble onto some small turbo cams then who knows.


Funny part is I ditched the 5.3L big bore stroker build because I couldn't fit the intake I wanted in the build within the budget I set. Now this build has surpassed that and is still inching higher. :smash:


I do feel I'll be happier with this build tho. Not only because of the extra HP but for the streetability I'll keep in the lower rpms.

 

[04 orange cobra]

Do you think the clutch will hold ??? How much HP do you think it'll make ??

 

[Wicked One]

I would watch the mmr blocks, not many have had good luck but I am sure you did your research.

As for fuel, I second Jeremy at s&h performance. He did my fuel setup and it is perfect. I am running a single 405 with a gap with 60# injectors, never ran out of fuel. I also have another hat that has twin 340 pumps. He also sells full turbo kits.

With the 4" intake and the maf meter, make sure you have at least 12" of straight tubing before the meter or you can get false readings. The box or ba 5000 might be too much maf, but your tuner should be able to.work.with it. Might want to keep the stock maf and pick up mafia maf extender.
The clutch has to be upgraded to an 8 bolt if your stock crank is a 6. I like the McLeod rxt twin. It is noisy, but sticks like shit to Velcro.
I am talking from personal.experience, not what I read. Best of luck with the build.

 

[BAzombie]

I put a Ram HD in it when I did the heads and intake and it's held fine but I no way it'll handle the turbo. I'm going to try a Spec stage 3+ it's rated to 800 ft/lbs torque.

I'd like to hit 15#s and between 500-600whp but I doubt the single 340 and BAP will get there. If not I'll keep the DC on the pump under 90% and run with whatever it makes for a year. To fit a hat with dual pumps I need a different tank. I'm not going that far without doing braided lines too so that's for next winter. Then I'll push it to what the 67mm will spin or to 600whp, whichever comes first.


On a side topic Pete also mentioned a BA5000 for a MAF but I remember Tim saying you had issues with your MAF. You're running a SCT BA series aren't you? What problems are you having?

 

[04 orange cobra]

5000 was having issues because of heat from the blower... The slot style are great sensors...

 

[BAzombie]

Wicked, I touched on the dual pumps and my 96 tank, apparently it's a no-no. I thought I seen a hat that would fit a 405lph in it but I could be wrong. A 340 is the biggest that fit in the stock hat with some mods.


I believe the cold side pipe is 3.5" from cooler to TB but good to know on the 12" of straight pipe before the MAF.


As for the MMR short block, there's a few builds on ModdedMustangs.com with their blocks and doing well. I bought my heads thru them and besides shipping times their product was top notch. Yes the 750SE is an 8 bolt crank I believe. The 600 is 6 or 8 bolt but is just a cast crank, the 750 is the smallest with a forged crank.

 

[Wicked One]

A 340 with bap will handle 550. If you are concerned, go with the walbro 405 with a bap. That will support 600 with no problem, I am at 650+ without the finished tune an my duty cycle is 74% running pig fat. But this is on a returnless system.

I run the ba5000 slotted maf. If the meter is to large the counts are gonna be erratic cause there isn't enought volume for it to read. If going blow through, you should be fine.

Best of luck.

 

[BAzombie]

Rob I still talk that car of yours up any chance I can.

Get that MAF straightened out and that thing's got to have 9's in it. Hitting 10.2 @ 140+ on a single pass with issues ... 9's for sure.

That's bookin' brother.