The End of an Era
- Thread starter Super Jew
- Start date
Ok, I'll address question #2 first. The drivershaft question is hard to address because you never gave me any additional info. How did your car leave the factory ( I know it was a six_) ,but the key question is was it a stick or an auto ?
Did it still have the drive train in it when you bought it? To give A vague answer if your car was an auto and you still have the driveshaft from it, it should work unless the setup you buy is very early ( not likely) or if something was changed over the past 40 years.
Question # 1 This is a toughy, when it comes to body filler the rule of thumb is use as little as possible.
Typically you don't want to go over 1/8" thick. No matter what brand you use and how thick you go it can settle, shrink, crack or be wavy. The thicker it is , usually the worse it will look. Here we go with more questions You need to body fill because of rust?
You need to body fill because of accident damage?
How did you fix these areas, Did you hammer and dolly the metal out? Did you cut and weld in new metal? Did you just dig the old filler and want to reapply? How did you treat any rust (sanding,chemically,etc) ?
***** Most important question Can you post a picture?
Moisture is usually the biggest culprit on lifting and cracking filler, Let's say you fill over holes and you smooth it out, prime it,paint it, etc. The moisture will enter from the under side .
Let me know on those questions and I can help advise on the driveshaft and such.Later
The car is and was originally an automatic, and the car did come with the full drive train still attached. I disconnected the drive shaft myself, but it I don't know if it is the original drive shaft.
The filler I would be adding it mostly to refill areas I dug out, which had filler from added panels, which I'd imagine were put in to fix rust spots. I did use both paint stripper and a sander to take the paint and bondo off. You can see in some of the photos that there are rust spots I would need to bondo. I would probably patch bad rust spots before adding bondo, to keep out the moisture, like you said earlier.
I'm a realist and trust me I have a soft spot for rusty Mustangs .For the record I have bought and fixed worse. That said This car needs metal replacement Removing past bondo abuse to reapply massive amounts of bondo is not making the car any better. You're exposing past sins to cover them back up. Do you know how to weld ? Or do you have an in with someone who does? The pictures do not tell the whole story typically you can only see 1/3 to 1/2 of the true damage until you start to tear into it. Things that need replacement : Panel that goes between trunk and back window( That is not patchble)it's shot . Trunk lid needs replacement. Roof needs extensive patch work, maybe replacement. Quarters , fenders, doors, hood, ? Don't know? How's the frame. All fixable but to do it right you're looking at $$$$$ if you're not doing it yourself.
I'm not trying to completely turn you off, but I think you should consider a different car,unless you're really good at metal work. There are still deals still out there.I recently picked up a decent looking/ running 66 v8 coupe for $1500. Candy apple red black interior, magnum 500 rims, some suspension upgrades. It could use some metal work and cosmetics.I mean this as food for thought. Give me a budget I'd help you look around.
P.S. The stock driveshaft from your car would work with the other motor and trans.
I'm not trying to completely turn you off, but I think you should consider a different car,unless you're really good at metal work. There are still deals still out there.I recently picked up a decent looking/ running 66 v8 coupe for $1500. Candy apple red black interior, magnum 500 rims, some suspension upgrades. It could use some metal work and cosmetics.I mean this as food for thought. Give me a budget I'd help you look around.
P.S. The stock driveshaft from your car would work with the other motor and trans.
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unfortunately I don't know how to weld, but I do have an arc welder and a few friends that can weld. I really don't want to give up on her yet, so I will keep stripping her down, to assess the situation and try to fix the body as best I can. Luckily the swap meets coming up, so I should be able to find any panels that need replacing there.
I eventually do want to buy another, and i will let you know when I start looking, but that probably won't be until around July.
I'm still here to offer support, advice,etc. As I said I didn't want to totally turn you off.I was just trying to steer you in a better possible (investment ) direction,It's very easy to sink a ton of money and time(this is a biggie, as in less time cruising,more time working. PLus more time to get turned off on the project. ) into a car with issues like yours. As I've said I've seen and fixed worse.
This Car :
Is way worse than yours. Trust me, I'm fixing it,it's my first car and I'm a sentimental fool.
Ok here are my thoughts instead of bondoing up the car. Trust me no matter who you talk to 3/4" of bondy filler is UNACCEPTABLE. I would stop stripping it.
I would work on getting it running (any update on that drivetrain?) and stopping . Then start to look at a couple of areas at a time, if you strip and tear it all apart, you might get really turned off.
Next I would consider getting a Gasless Mig. People are going to sneer but if you have a low budget you can get one for around $100. I have a Lincoln and A Miller ( both good machines) But I am telling you for panel replacement, you can get by with a 110 gasless If your budget is bigger you can go bigger. Have your friends teach you a bit. Before people start knocking the cheap mig compare it to bondoing over rotted metal with pop riveted patches as I'm seeing in your photos.
What swap meets are you planning on attending? I have a couple I always go to, but I'm always looking for ones I don't know of? As far as parts when/if you make a list. Let me know what you're looking for, as I have a ton of parts plus I have parts ins and such maybe I can help you find some decent deals.
Hey,
No real news on the drivetrain search. The 6cyl and tranny I found is still available, but I was waiting for work to pick up before I start spending again. My job is seasonal, and the seasons just picking up, so hopefully in two or three weeks I'll be able to pick the motor up.
I'll definitely look into a mig welder. I've been eye balling a few at harbor freight tools, so maybe I'll finally take one home.
The swap meet I go to is the one at Englishtown, Raceway Park in NJ. I live about 5 minutes down the road, so I have no excuse not to go. lol.
I'll keep you posted on the project, when I start buying parts and the drivetrain. Shouldn't be too long.
No real news on the drivetrain search. The 6cyl and tranny I found is still available, but I was waiting for work to pick up before I start spending again. My job is seasonal, and the seasons just picking up, so hopefully in two or three weeks I'll be able to pick the motor up.
I'll definitely look into a mig welder. I've been eye balling a few at harbor freight tools, so maybe I'll finally take one home.
The swap meet I go to is the one at Englishtown, Raceway Park in NJ. I live about 5 minutes down the road, so I have no excuse not to go. lol.
I'll keep you posted on the project, when I start buying parts and the drivetrain. Shouldn't be too long.
I think I'm going to start writing a book about this car... so the man that was going to buy it in the beginning of March convinced his family that getting the Stang was a good idea. So, he called me yesterday about it, and came today to pick her up. So, It is bitter sweet saying this but she has a new home now.
The new owner seem competent and should get her back to her deserved glory.
Time for me to get a beer, Cheers!
Here are a few pics of her getting loaded up.
The new owner seem competent and should get her back to her deserved glory.
Time for me to get a beer, Cheers!
Here are a few pics of her getting loaded up.
Hey S.J.
Honestly that was probably for the best.Once I saw the depth of that rot, I knew metal replacement was your only option,That car either needs someone skilled in metal replacement or more $ than it will ever be worth. You kept asking about filler, not a viable option on that car. So You have some money in your pocket..... What's your budget ? LOL. I ask in a kidding tone. However I have looked at four classic Mustangs for sale in the last 4 days. One is a v8 auto 66 coupe presentable driver, running driving, no structural rot .Pony interior ,power steering ,$4500 .May sound steep but it's ready to cruise .
Corny I know but when you fall off a horse you're supposed to get right back on it,Right ? ........ Mustang...... Horse, get it? Sorry
Honestly that was probably for the best.Once I saw the depth of that rot, I knew metal replacement was your only option,That car either needs someone skilled in metal replacement or more $ than it will ever be worth. You kept asking about filler, not a viable option on that car. So You have some money in your pocket..... What's your budget ? LOL. I ask in a kidding tone. However I have looked at four classic Mustangs for sale in the last 4 days. One is a v8 auto 66 coupe presentable driver, running driving, no structural rot .Pony interior ,power steering ,$4500 .May sound steep but it's ready to cruise .
Corny I know but when you fall off a horse you're supposed to get right back on it,Right ? ........ Mustang...... Horse, get it? Sorry
First off Ponyboy, Thank you for all the help. I hope I didn't cause too much frustration with all my newbie questions.
I definitely agree as far as getting back on the horse. lol. I'm probably going to be living on auto classifieds until that stop in my garage is filled. Honestly my budget is tiny, I have about 1800 to spend today. I don't believe I'd find the one I want for that however. I figured I's save up and spend around 4500-6000 somewhere in July. If I did find a good deal, I could always finagle something. I definitely want my next classic to be manual and in ready to cruise condition (but I don't expect show car condition). An original V8 would be nice too, but not a deal breaker. If you see stang of interest for sale, and don't mind letting me know, I'd appreciate it!
Hopefully I'll be on the road in a classic soon.
I definitely agree as far as getting back on the horse. lol. I'm probably going to be living on auto classifieds until that stop in my garage is filled. Honestly my budget is tiny, I have about 1800 to spend today. I don't believe I'd find the one I want for that however. I figured I's save up and spend around 4500-6000 somewhere in July. If I did find a good deal, I could always finagle something. I definitely want my next classic to be manual and in ready to cruise condition (but I don't expect show car condition). An original V8 would be nice too, but not a deal breaker. If you see stang of interest for sale, and don't mind letting me know, I'd appreciate it!
Hopefully I'll be on the road in a classic soon.