Recent content by wtfox

got a crackhead deal on some AFR's!

Did you ever sell the manifold?

i learn as i go, im just lucky it isnt my only car

well i got it to idle pretty nicely at 1000RPM. First thing i did was hook the EGR back up. Then i followed the base idle reset procedure. I was still idling a little high and running lean so I closed the throttle plate little by little and my AFR started going down!! I left it at 1000...

IAC is hooked up, it was functional before i rebuilt the motor, now? EGR is disconnected but I bought an EGR delete thingy that plugs into the sensor socket. timing is at 13 degrees with the spout connector out

So i put a new motor into my 88 LX. Before the new motor i had converted it to mass air from the speed density and it ran great. The block is bored .04" over and has an E303 cam. Timing was set dead on with the marks on the gears lined up at TDC. I refreshed the stock heads and am still...

im in wayne county ny actually. pretty much a stock setup. 88 lx converted to mass air. stock intake and throttle body, flow matched injectors, E303 cam, BBK equal length shorties, O/R X pipe and flowmaster exhaust. Just took it out to seat the rings and it feels pretty good so far. now...

nah, wayne county NY

1979-95 Mustang 5.0L 302 Economy Short Block, Accepts Roller Cam at LRS - Same Day Shipping! it came out to $830 with freight shipping for me. biggest pain was having it delivered. luckily my work has a loading dock so it was no problem. you could always have it brought to your house. it...

$830 shipped for an assembled short block from latemodelrestoration.com

well i can definitely say the clamp method is a much better idea. using a pry bar resulted in me getting a bar to the face with a nice gash above me eye :p. i used a quick clamp, the pistol grip style with a clevice in between the clamp and the release fork to give me space to stick the cable...

hey, thanks for the ideas. i was looking at it and figured a big old C clamp would do the job. i'll borrow one of those from work and try both methods. it seems to be the little things holding me up on this project :smash:

I am trying to get my clutch cable back onto the release fork and it is not really working for me. I tried pulling the clutch pedal all the way to the top but that doesn't give me any more length to work with. Is there some adjustment on the quadrant that I cannot find? I am new to mustangs...

This is what I was talking about. The old stem seals were a stock, ford, positive style seal but these were over the top of them between the seal and retainer. They were a perfect slip fit over the valve stem. I've just never seen anything like that before.

well the new seals did not come with the plastic washer so I assume they were unnecessary.