removing lower intake, valve covers, and changing waterpump help...

[Killer5.0]

have a 93 and i need to remove my lower intake to change the gasket and have it powdercoated while im at.

do i have to completely remove the fuel lines or can i just loosen the pside head bolt and move them out of the way?

also what is the proper procedure for removing the distributor as ihave never removed one before.

im buying the felpro ms95952 gasket kit as it was recommended to me. it comes with rubber gaskets for where the intake meets the block but i read in my rebuilding sbf book to just use a silicone sealant and no gasket there?

this is my first time tackling this sort of job so just want to do it right.

have to change my waterpump is there a writeup on how to properly seal the gaskets etc when changing it?

thanks for the help

 

[Michael B]

Leave the distributor in. Just remove the cap and cap adapter. You will have to remove the fuel lines to make things easier going back together. 3M makes a sealant called " The Right Stuff", pricey but worth the money as it will seal with oil running through it. Clean all surfaces well. Use gasket sealer on the water pump (both sides of gasket). Run a 1/4" bead of silicone on the front and back block rails plus up the corners of the heads. Some gasket sealer around the water ports is a good idea also. Keep track of where all the bolts come from as brackets won't line up right. Good luck with your project.

 

[AdirondackFox08]

You can just remove the lines from the intake, two bolts on each side holding the rail, and I believe one bolt holds the lines on the passenger side of the engine block. You can then just move the whole thing over onto the fender. I never had to disconnect the lines when I replaced the old engine. Be sure to seal the front and back of the lower intake with rtv, don't use the rubber, or foam pieces that may come with the kit. If you want to remove your distributor, be sure to mark where the rotor is pointing at on the cup itself, and mark the intake where the rotor is pointing to also.

 

[Killer5.0]

Got it all apart....didnt need to disconnect the fuel lines....did remove the dizzy...marked the rotor location and the base at the block....seems everyone is in agreement about not using the rubber end seals....

Whoever put the intake in before for the previous owner didnt seal up the corners etc and it was leakin at the rear end seal so im glad i removed it....waterpump gasket was leakin as well allowing the coolant to be pushed out the bottom between the wp backing plate and the timing cover.


How do u get the hard heater lines off the lower intake...the thing wont budge...gonna heat it with a torch tomorrow to see if i can get it off.

 

[Killer5.0]

Got it all apart....didnt need to disconnect the fuel lines....did remove the dizzy...marked the rotor location and the base at the block....seems everyone is in agreement about not using the rubber end seals....

Whoever put the intake in before for the previous owner didnt seal up the corners etc and it was leakin at the rear end seal so im glad i removed it....waterpump gasket was leakin as well allowing the coolant to be pushed out the bottom between the wp backing plate and the timing cover.


How do u get the hard heater lines off the lower intake...the thing wont budge...gonna heat it with a torch tomorrow to see if i can get it off.