Custom dust boot for the ’99-’04 Mustang Steeda Bump Steer kit for under $20.
I made this because there is nothing protecting dirt and water from getting into the Heim Joint. The stud Steeda uses in their kit is 5/8” 18 pitch. All washers and nuts are for that size.
Needed for project;
2 packages, 2per package. Prothane boots from American Muscle. Part # 47421 - Prothane Tie Rod End Dust Boots (79-04 All) $12.99. Or any dust boot that has 5/8” center hole.
2 or 4 ea. 5/8” X 1/8” Steel washers (galvanized or Stainless is best) from hardware store.
2 ea. 5/8” 18 pitch Jam nuts (Stainless is best) also from hardware store.
Some Lock-tite.
Prothane boots
Prothane info from package.
Washer and nut picture.
Install procedure;
Jack up the front end. No need to support the lower control arm, just let the wheel hang by the strut. Use proper safety precautions.
Remove the tie rod from the stud attached to the spindle. In this picture I put one of the smaller spacers from the Steeda kit on and then one of the washers I bought, then the top boot under the washer. The washer will hold the boot in the proper position to seal against the outer ring of the Heim joint. The washer is to keep tension on the boot, pushing it down, tight to the top of the Heim joint. The reason I said to use a 1/8” thick washer is because that is the thickness of one of the small spacers from Steeda.
Try to buy washers that are close to the size of the diameter of the top of the boot. There will be interference with the dust shield if you get one too wide. Mine were @ 1-1/4” in diameter.
Picture of top boot put on after the washer and one Steeda spacer. Push remaining Steeda spacers you had installed originally minus 1/8” because of the washer thickness. Next put tie-rod back on. I placed one small spacer on top of the Steeda supplied nylock nut that came with the bump steer kit.
Torque the nut 50 ft lbs as Steeda originally instructed.
Next I modified the bottom boot for my particular install. You may have more or less thread of the stud showing. With the amount of threads I had exposed I used a grinder with a scotch-brite type disk to grind down both sides of the boot. This worked well to grind the urethane. This was so I didn't pinch the boot too much when tightening the jam nut that holds the bottom boot in place.
Picture of the boot ground down to make it thinner. Compare each one in the picture to see what I mean. You may not have to do this if you have less spacers on your stud or more threads exposed. Do the same to the other side of the boot if, when you tighten the jam nut, it squeezes too much and buckles out.
You can put another washer on before the jam nut if you have enough threads. I didn’t have enough threads showing so I just put the jam nut on without a washer. As long as you purchase the boots with a 5/8" center hole it will be tight on the stud anyways. I used lock-tite on the jam nut so it doesn’t come off as there is nothing to lock it on.
Finished View.
A picture of the angle of the tie rod compared to the lower control arm. I could probably add one more small spacer above the Heim joint, but with converting to coil-overs up front I hardly have bump steer any more anyway. I have about a two finger width between the top of my front tire and the fender. So it’s definitely dropped.
And that’s about it. For less than 20 bucks you got a boot to protect your investment!
Good Luck, Chief Gilly.
I made this because there is nothing protecting dirt and water from getting into the Heim Joint. The stud Steeda uses in their kit is 5/8” 18 pitch. All washers and nuts are for that size.
Needed for project;
2 packages, 2per package. Prothane boots from American Muscle. Part # 47421 - Prothane Tie Rod End Dust Boots (79-04 All) $12.99. Or any dust boot that has 5/8” center hole.
2 or 4 ea. 5/8” X 1/8” Steel washers (galvanized or Stainless is best) from hardware store.
2 ea. 5/8” 18 pitch Jam nuts (Stainless is best) also from hardware store.
Some Lock-tite.
Prothane boots
Prothane info from package.
Washer and nut picture.
Install procedure;
Jack up the front end. No need to support the lower control arm, just let the wheel hang by the strut. Use proper safety precautions.
Remove the tie rod from the stud attached to the spindle. In this picture I put one of the smaller spacers from the Steeda kit on and then one of the washers I bought, then the top boot under the washer. The washer will hold the boot in the proper position to seal against the outer ring of the Heim joint. The washer is to keep tension on the boot, pushing it down, tight to the top of the Heim joint. The reason I said to use a 1/8” thick washer is because that is the thickness of one of the small spacers from Steeda.
Try to buy washers that are close to the size of the diameter of the top of the boot. There will be interference with the dust shield if you get one too wide. Mine were @ 1-1/4” in diameter.
Picture of top boot put on after the washer and one Steeda spacer. Push remaining Steeda spacers you had installed originally minus 1/8” because of the washer thickness. Next put tie-rod back on. I placed one small spacer on top of the Steeda supplied nylock nut that came with the bump steer kit.
Torque the nut 50 ft lbs as Steeda originally instructed.
Next I modified the bottom boot for my particular install. You may have more or less thread of the stud showing. With the amount of threads I had exposed I used a grinder with a scotch-brite type disk to grind down both sides of the boot. This worked well to grind the urethane. This was so I didn't pinch the boot too much when tightening the jam nut that holds the bottom boot in place.
Picture of the boot ground down to make it thinner. Compare each one in the picture to see what I mean. You may not have to do this if you have less spacers on your stud or more threads exposed. Do the same to the other side of the boot if, when you tighten the jam nut, it squeezes too much and buckles out.
You can put another washer on before the jam nut if you have enough threads. I didn’t have enough threads showing so I just put the jam nut on without a washer. As long as you purchase the boots with a 5/8" center hole it will be tight on the stud anyways. I used lock-tite on the jam nut so it doesn’t come off as there is nothing to lock it on.
Finished View.
A picture of the angle of the tie rod compared to the lower control arm. I could probably add one more small spacer above the Heim joint, but with converting to coil-overs up front I hardly have bump steer any more anyway. I have about a two finger width between the top of my front tire and the fender. So it’s definitely dropped.
And that’s about it. For less than 20 bucks you got a boot to protect your investment!
Good Luck, Chief Gilly.
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