anyone do battery relocation (foxbody) looking for a good writeup

[Killer5.0]

not nhra so i dont want the kill switch unless its for some sort of safety reason....also running an s-trim and 2 12's in the hatch with a 2400 watt amp if it matters for wiring. interiors out so i plan to run as much wire inside the car as i can for better protection.

any tips/input is appreciated

thanks

 

[Johnarmymp552]

Just order yourself a kit. Too easy to do.

 

[Killer5.0]

i have an optima redtop...does that require a sealed box? i like the bolt together summit one as far as looks go...

 

[Noterminator]

i have an optima redtop...does that require a sealed box? i like the bolt together summit one as far as looks go...

No it doesn't. Plenty of people have installed them without a sealed box.

 

[Johnarmymp552]

Those batteries are awesome for relocation. You can mount them anyway you want.

 

[Killer5.0]

what kinda boxes you guys run? i like the bolt together summit one (looks wise) and plan to relocate to the p-side rear of my hatch....is there a wiring kit you can buy or i have to purchase everything seperately? and do you guys run a kill switch with your setups?

 

[Noterminator]

what kinda boxes you guys run? i like the bolt together summit one (looks wise) and plan to relocate to the p-side rear of my hatch....is there a wiring kit you can buy or i have to purchase everything seperately? and do you guys run a kill switch with your setups?

I haven't run one. I'd def get a switch. Taylor sells a heavy duty one. You can get it through American Muscle. I think their is a kit, not sure though. I'd call Summit or Jegs and ask. Sometimes some parts aren't always listed.

 

[blwn93gt]

sealed boxes are not required for the Optima, only regular batteries, UPR makes a great holder for the Optima, thats what i will be installing in my 93 when i do it in a couple of weeks, you will only need a kill switch if you plan to race the car, it is required on any track, if you are not going to race it, dont worry about the kill switch.

or this one, this is a Aerospace Battery Mounting from Summit, this is what im doing

 

[Killer5.0]

where are you purchasing your cables relays etc? you running the starter relay in the trunk or leaving it in the engine bay? i already tucked my wire so mine is in the fender

 

[blwn93gt]

over the years i have accumelated several wiring kits from boxes we bought for the race cars, mine will be tucked in the fender wall up front, im cleaning all the wiring up and cleaning my engine bay out, move of the kits were bought from Summit or Jegs when we got new battery boxes

 

[MaximumRisk]

This is the way that I have it setup in my SN95. I have a dedicated solenoid with a 0gauge wire powering the starter which is only hot while cranking (huge amp draw). I run a 4gauge wire with a 150amp fuse close to the battery to power everything else. No cut off switch, and the battery inside a Moroso box.

 

[Killer5.0]

So for the fuse i can use like an audio system fuse?....and u eliminate the starter solenoid?....what do i need for a power block?...thanks for the info

 

[Killer5.0]

Ok....so cant find a diagram for my setup..if anyone knows how i should run this plz let me know..

200a 3g alternator
2 12" subs
2400watt amp
5 farad cap....
Crane hi-6
Strim
Optima redtop.

I use 0 ga power and ground from batt to cap and 4ga from cap to amp with 200a circuit breaker between batt and cap.

As for relocating the batt to avoid voltage spikes and such im lost....are the spikes only if u run a kill switch?....i want to route the wires inside the car to the front while having the heavy starter cable hot only during cranking. No kill switch as i dont track my car. What gauge wires should i use and anyone have a diagram?....

Thanks for the help